Queen Nefertiti was married to Amenhotep IV in 1357 BC. She was known as the "Ruler of the Nile" and "Daughter of Gods". She reigned from 1353 - 1336 BC. Nefertiti had an exceptional amount of power in those days, and is believed to have held equal status to the pharaoh himself. However, controversy lingers about Nefertiti after the twelfth regal year of Akhenaten, when her name vanishes from the pages of history. Why am I writing about Queen Nefertiti, you may be thinking? She actually invented a form of eyeliner from a mineral that contained lead called Galena. Even though we know that lead in makeup throughout history is bad for you, this type of lead was not. (Bust of Nefertiti - pictured left) Archaeologists have now found that the Egyptians added lead to their cosmetics on purpose. When an analytical chemist in Paris analyzed the composition of several samples of the Egyptians' famous bold, black eyeliner, they identified two types of lead salt not found in nature. That means that ancient Egyptians must have synthesized them. But making lead salt is a tricky, delicate process that requires tending for weeks--and unlike other common makeup components, the salts are not glossy. So why did they bother? (Ancient Egyptian Eye Khol pot w/ Applicator - pictured right) Ancient manuscripts gave the scientists a clue. It turns out that in those days, people made lead salts and used them as treatments for eye ailments, scars, and discolorations. They were intrigued with these findings, because lead is now known to have so many toxic effects. Galena was the key ingredient that Nefertiti founded, and even though it has lead in it, the mineral was later found to reduce inflammation and potentially serving as a means of fighting bacterial infection during periods when the Nile would flood. This also had a spiritual parallel, with the painted eye becoming a kind of amulet, again warding off evil spirits; when undecorated, the eye was vulnerable to the influence of the “evil eye”. It’s even been suggested that Nefertiti herself sent chemists out to collect the galena mineral and refine the formula for kohl to grant her additional spiritual protection. (Example of Galena mineral - pictured left) Historical facts taken from ScienceMagazine.Org and AncientOrigins.Net
https://www.sciencemag.org/news/2010/01/egyptian-eyeliner-may-have-warded-disease
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My collection of Vintage Beauty products began in 1997. I had been skimming through vintage stores, swap meets and garage sales with my mother, and grandmothers. I wish I had the knowledge then that I have now, or even the care to collect something in those days. But alas, there is always an individual path we all take, to find what we are meant to find. Having all this knowledge, I am more specific in eras and brands with my collection, but THIS is one of my favorites. From Cleopatra's Boudoir guide to perfume brands. "Established in 1915 by Victor Vivaudou, a French-American, affiliated with Delettrez, the initial creator of the Vivaudou products. Vivaudou produced low to medium priced range presentations, while Delettrez produced luxury presentations." Vivaudou and Delettrez created loose powder, perfumes, body talc, skin care, balms, rouge and lipsticks. Victor Vivaudou had a career in the beauty industry that spanned about 20+ years, he mismanaged the business from the beginning, had various scams, as well as family scandal. He eventually retired from the beauty industry in 1936, or possibly into the 1940s. I have a tattoo of this Vivaudou advertisment from 1924, (pictured left) by the famous artist Henry Clive. As you can tell this brand is very special to me. The artistry alone created in their advertising was just stunning. After almost 20 years of collecting I also have stumbled upon this ad, along with others from 1924 magazines. They were preserved so well, the colors look as if the magazine were printed a year ago. The piece below that I have found is spectacular! It was just last year, (yes this is the FIRST Vivaudou antique I have fell in love with). It's pretty funny considering all the other pieces I have seen. I guess I wanted this item to be as special as I was fortunate enough to procure. I present to you the Vivaudou Boudoirette. It' consists of lovely presentation box, inside a face powder and rouge with puff and mirror in a convenient cylinder. One side has a screw off lid that reveals a face powder shaker, (with powder inside). The other side is the flip-top mirror with miniature puff and rouge beneath. Also in the box are full refills of powder, (brand new and still in the wrapper) rouge with fresh powder puffs. I am still so tickled that I found this item. Such intriguing history. Thank you to Cleopatra's Boutique, Collecting Vintage Compacts and Cosmetics and Skin for providing such a wealth of information.
Until Next time loves! Makeup is my passion, and my blood-force. When I work, I try my darnedest to make sure EVERY person in my chair is comfortable, safe from contamination and safe from product irritants, as well as happy to be creating with me. Each production is very different. From a photo shoot, to a commercial and a major motion picture. This does not mean a makeup artist should EVER sacrifice the health of a person because of budget or time constraints. It's not easy, but some artists are ingenious about how they go about creating character looks, on a budget. From design, to planning, actual application and maintenance. As much as we try our best, sometimes the unfathomable happens, at least it did more often than we realize in the early days of Hollywood cinema. Buddy Ebsen was originally cast as the Tin Man for the 1939 filming of The Wizard of Oz. SIDENOTE: Roy Bolger, (Scarecrow) convinced MGM to trade parts with himself and Buddy, he was the first actor slated. Roy must have been thanking his lucky stars when things went wrong. At the start of production, MGM had no idea how to costume Buddy for his role. They tried a variety of materials for his clothing (real tin, silver paper, cardboard covered with silver cloth) and makeup before finally settling on aluminum dust (applied over clown white) for filming. When the Wizard of Oz began principal photography on the 12th of October 1938, Buddy had finished all his costume and makeup tests, recorded his songs for the film soundtrack, and completed four weeks of rehearsal. Nine days later, he was rushed to the hospital and placed in an oxygen tent when his lungs failed. As Buddy Ebsen described the onset of symptoms in his autobiography: It was several days later when my cramps began. My first symptoms had been a noticeable shortness of breath. I would breathe and exhale and then get the panicky feeling I hadn't breathed at all. Then I would gasp for another quick breath with the same result. My fingers began to cramp, and then my toes. For a time I could control this unusual cramping by forcibly straightening out my fingers and toes. One night in bed I woke up screaming. My arms were cramping from my fingers upward and curling simultaneously so that I could not use one arm to uncurl the other. My wife tried to pull my arm straight with some success, just as my toes began to curl; then my feet and legs bent backward at the knees. I panicked. What was happening to me? Next came the worst. The cramps in my arms advanced into my chest to the muscles that controlled my breathing. If this continued, I wouldn't even be able to take a breath. I was sure I was dying. The aluminum dust in Buddy's makeup caused an allergic reaction and/or infection, in his lungs that made it very difficult to breathe. He ended up spending 2 weeks in the hospital and another month recuperating in San Diego. That's when the original director Richard Thorpe was fired. While Buddy Ebsen was recovering, producer Mervin LeRoy hired Jack Haley to replace him. The alumimum makeup application and products were changed, from a powder that was brushed on, to a paste painted on. Jack missed four days of filming when the new makeup caused an eye infection, but treatment was given in time to prevent any permanent damage.) Because Buddy Ebsen had fallen ill away from the set, the rest of the cast was unaware of what had happened to him. Haley and others assumed he had been fired along with Richard Thorpe. Although Buddy was replaced before filming resumed, his voice can still be heard in the soundtrack, when the quartet of Dorothy, the Scarecrow, the Tin Man and the Cowardly Lion sings, We're Off To See The Wizard. Now, not to scare you all before Halloween, the aluminum is regulated differently than in 1938. Traces of aluminum can still be found in SOME cosmetics, unfortunately it is even in some water we drink. It's a very common substance, but their are US FDA regulations against some use. Please see the link below to read about this product and the Environmental Working Groups rating for Aluminum.
Q: I am pale as you can be & I love it, but when I put liquid base on, it looks shiny, won’t say on and too sheer, what is your favorite for base liquid & powder to give that perfected porcelain look? I want to have a skin finish like Dita Von Teese! ~ Holly A: Holly, I commend your want to have that perfect porcelain look, it’s not a common request these days with spray tans and tanning beds! SO KUDOS TO YOU MY DEAR! Before these steps below remember to apply your normal daily moisturizer and undereye cream! 1. To get that perfect porcelain look you need to start off with a good, clean skin base! To help you with that, you need to apply over your entire face, a primer. Try MAC PREP + PRIME Face Protect SPF 50, $30 2. Apply foundation with your fingers, over entire face, except in your under eye area. I suggest a makeup that will keep you shine free and has a medium coverage with a Matte finish. Find your perfect shade in either, Laura Mercier Oil Free Foundation, $42 or MAC Studio Fix Fluid, $26. 3. Next you need a concealer for your under eye area and any imperfections you may want to hide! I suggest you apply MAC Select Cover Up, $16 in a shade suitable for you. Make sure to blend, (with your fingers) the concealer with your foundation so you have a smooth finish. 4. Lastly, finish your routine with a translucent finishing powder, you can use either a loose or pressed but make sure to apply with a large powder brush, such as: Physicians Formula Bamboo Wear Bambuki Brush, $10. Using your brush, lightly dust your powder all over your face, this will set your makeup and ensure you have the Porcelain Prefect and Matte Skin! Try either, MAC PREP + PRIME Transparent Finishing Powder, $22 or Revlon Photo Ready Powder, $12! Viola, you now have a Perfect Porcelain Skin, just like that flawless Dita Von Teese! Enjoy your perfected look Holly and thanks for the question!
Egyptian Kohl Pots
Cosmetics were used throughout the middle ages, and in Renaissance periods. In the late eighteenth century, the use of cosmetics was so widespread that Parliament passed a law that made the use of cosmetics part of a seduction, which to them meant witchcraft. From that law being passed, women that used cosmetics were basically called “ladies of the night”. In the late nineteenth century, cosmetics went through a revival in parts of Europe. The lipstick cases and compacts were adorned with gems, ornately painted landscapes and the like. In America, during the Victorian era and before World War I, the artificial use of beauty aids was frowned upon still and considered immoral. The opinion of society was, “to improve on nature, all women needed was proper diet, fresh air, and exercise”. You should all remember the scene from “Little Women” when they pinch their cheeks to look healthy, fresh and get that natural rosy glow. Now you know why! Cosmetics were used throughout the middle ages, and in Renaissance periods. In the late eighteenth century, the use of cosmetics was so widespread that Parliament passed a law that made the use of cosmetics part of a seduction, which to them meant witchcraft. From that law being passed, women that used cosmetics were basically called “ladies of the night”. Dorothy Grey's The Patter In the late nineteenth century, cosmetics went through a revival in parts of Europe. The lipstick cases and compacts were adorned with gems, ornately painted landscapes and the like. In America, during the Victorian era and before World War I, the artificial use of beauty aids was frowned upon still and considered immoral. The opinion of society was, “to improve on nature, all women needed was proper diet, fresh air, and exercise”. You should all remember the scene from “Little Women” when they pinch their cheeks to look healthy, fresh and get that natural rosy glow. Now you know why! In 1923, Dorothy Grey introduced The Face Patter, to stimulate circulation and make the cheeks naturally pink! From then on, attitudes regarding cosmetics changed dramatically in the beginning of the twentieth century. The use of makeup during the day was finally accepted and looked upon with respect. We have the silver screen’s trend setting film stars to thank for that! Max Factor Dry Rouge in "Rasberry" The word “make-up” was actually coined by Max Factor, beauty consultant to the stars. Women began to see that they could achieve a “modern” image with cosmetics, and then recognized the importance of personal beauty. As women became liberated and entered the business world, the cosmetic compacts and carryalls were a necessity. Excerpts and information from Vintage Ladies’ Compacts Identification & Value Guide, 1996 Under side of Max Factor Dry Rouge The piece I am showing you was purchased in Fargo, North Dakota. I was there for my best friend’s wedding and my flight was delayed as I was heading home to the west. Having some time to kill, I found the nearest antique shop and below you’ll see just one of the gems I found! I was sad the package was a bit thrashed, when I found it, but you can make out the stamping on the dry rouge itself! Gasp, they just don’t make rouge like that today! Max Factor was a true founding forefather in the world of cosmetics! My inspiration continues with all the prized antiques in the beauty world. There will be more to come, and I hope it inspires you as well! Max Factor Pressed Dry Rouge, in Rasberry from 1938. I found a this Max Factor Pressed Powder with the same packaging in 1996 ed. Collector’s Encyclopedia of Compacts, Carryalls & Face Powder Boxes. |
AuthorJessi Pagel is a makeup and hair artist working in commercial, lifestyle, corporate, editorial, tv and live events. This blog has everything from how-to's to the adventures of her life and works in progress. Archives
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